(I climbed to the official highest point in the United Kingdom, Ben Nevis.)
During my trip to Scotland this past summer, I hiked to the peak of Ben Nevis, which is the highest mountain in the United Kingdom (U. K.) at 4,413 feet. If planning to summit Ben Nevis, hikers usually stay in a nearby town named Fort William. Late in the 17th century, the town was originally a fort that the English built to control clans after the Jacobite rebellions. Nestled on the shores of Loch Linnhe, the village is referred to as the “Outdoors Capital” of Scotland.
Individuals traveling to Fort William can visit the remains of the fort. The town possesses a historical charm with a welcoming atmosphere of restaurants, coffee shops, bakeries, and souvenir stores.
I arrived in Fort William on a late Friday afternoon. So, I spent Friday evening and most of Saturday walking around town, visiting the local eateries, and enjoying some light shopping. I planned to summit Ben Nevis on Sunday.
On Saturday morning, I ate a traditional Scottish breakfast at a coffee shop and bakery called The Old Deli. I thoroughly enjoyed the Tattie scone, which is a scone made from mashed potatoes. It tasted somewhat like a mix between a traditional baked potato and a sweet potato.
I took a stroll down High Street. I first stopped at St. Andrews Church, which was consecrated by the Episcopal church in 1880. The church extended off High Street with a groomed courtyard. A lychgate welcomed visitors into the simple gardens where a brick sidewalk leads to the entrance of the church. The focal point of the sanctuary centered on an altar where marble arches frame the scene with a statue of Jesus on the cross. Stained glass windows with notable Biblical scenes surrounded traditional pews. On two occasions, I spent an extended period in the chapel having a devotion and lighting some candles to honor and pray for my family.
I also visited the Highland Bookshop. This two-story business contained a large selection of books by Scottish authors and books about outdoor adventures in Scotland (e.g. hikes, mountaineering, history, regional traveling, and other sites to see). The store was clean and meticulously organized, where multiple genres of books were easy to find. While appealing to tourists, the bookshop catered to locals as well.
Just a few hundred feet down from the bookstore, I walked to the Granite House, a specialty gift shop with all things Scottish. I bought a Ben Nevis t-shirt since I planned to climb the mountain the next day. The Granite House stocked some unique and novel gifts I had not seen in other stores. Entering the store, I was instantly impressed at the selection of jewelry and some splendid artwork. This store was two stories, where more traditional gifts were stationed upstairs, like calendars, keychains, magnets, stuffed animals, and other Scottish goodies. Service with a smile was evident in this local establishment.
My Airbnb location was located in a neighborhood about two miles from High Street and about two and a half miles from the Ben Nevis trailhead. I walked several times back and forth from the residence to visit the town square, specialty stores, and restaurants. The walk to town was filled with residential surroundings and two bridges that crossed a river. With the background of mountain vistas, I did not mind the leisurely walk. So, I went back to my homestay to rest and finish some work with my online teaching jobs.
Thankfully, by evening, I figured out the bus routes in town. Scotland has an efficient system of easy-to-access public transportation. I took the bus to and from High Street. I ate at the Geographer Restaurant that night. I expected a long line of people waiting outside the restaurant when opening at 5:00 pm. Therefore, I tried to get there early to be seated first without the long wait. As I entered the eatery, the restaurant owner greeted me at the hostess stand. While I observed the owner during my meal, he intentionally made customers feel welcome. The service was fast, even if the owner had to take some orders himself. He took pride in managing a restaurant with a strong local reputation for good food and quality service.
The Geographer possessed a garden-like feel. Decorative vines and white Christmas lights garnished the ceiling and walls. I ate the Fried Korean Chicken Burger, which included a crisp fried chicken filet with Gochujang sauce, a sesame salad, and skinny fries. The meal was delectable!
Thankfully, the next morning at 8:00 am, my host gave me a ride and dropped me off at the Glen Nevis Visitor Center, where my chosen trail started to ascend Ben Nevis. I was grateful for the free transportation and Scottish hospitality to begin my climb early in the day. Scotland is known for its unpredictable weather. Some hikers have experienced tragic accidents on Ben Nevis because they could not see due to thick clouds or fog surrounding the mountain. The drop off the mountain’s cliffs is very steep in many places.
If the weather cooperates, the surrounding vistas of Scotland in the Highlands are majestic! The scenery is distinctive from what I often experience in a U. S. national park. In East Tennessee, we are surrounded by greenery and dense forests. In these parts of Scotland, there are not many trees. Historically, the region was once covered by 80% trees. However, over time, the trees were cut down and not replaced by those who cultivated the lumber.
After browsing and gathering trail information at the Glen Nevis Visitor Center, I started hiking through the zigzag patterns up the mountain. I breathed deeply and rested on many occasions as I climbed thousands of stone stairs. At the start of the trail, there were some pastures with cows grazing before reaching the main path.
The Ben Nevis trail was approximately eleven miles in and out on the same path. There was not much flat ground going up the mountain. This trail from the visitor center was named the Mountain Track. The locals called this route the “Tourist Trail” because throngs of people continually seek to climb the highest peak in the UK during the summer months. It is the most popular route and one of the most accessible without carrying climbing equipment.
I often stopped to soak in the moment and admire Fort William in the valleys below, where the shores of Loch Linnhe crisply outlined the town. The trail wound around the mountain like a jigsaw puzzle. The views of Fort William, surrounded by green hills, stretched as far as the eye could see. The town square and surrounding buildings started to become smaller and smaller with a panoramic view as I climbed higher up the mountain.
About halfway on my route, I stopped to sit down, rest, and eat a snack. Lochen Meall was my midpoint landmark during this break. This lake was surrounded by rolling knolls, and trails ran alongside the shores of the lake. Then, slightly above the lake, I encountered multiple streams and small waterfalls until I reached the top of the mountain. While on a schedule to summit and descend the mountain in about eight to nine hours, the scenery often made me want to pause and admire the scenery. It was not a hike to be rushed. There were a few moments when it was just nice to sit still and marvel at God’s creation without distraction or interruption.
Beyond Lochen Meall, the path curved toward the steep ascent along the western flank of the mountain. This section consisted of a back-and-forth route as I gradually exerted my way up the slope. The terrain changed significantly, becoming rockier and less forgiving, with loose stones and scree covering the path. The zigzag pattern eased in steepness but required steady footing, especially as hikers gained altitude.
As I finished each weave of the trail, just when I thought I was close to the summit, there would be one more steep hill to climb. I occasionally asked other hikers, “How much further to the summit?” Hikers would often say “almost there,” “almost there,” “almost there.” The “almost there” encouragement did not feel like I was almost there when trekking the last inclines of this trail.
When I saw snow on the trail, I knew I was near the summit. Because I did not wear winter boots, I was careful where I stepped on the snow. In certain areas, where the snow had not been packed by hikers the snow could still be several feet deep, even with the warmer July weather. In other words, your feet could sink several feet into the snow, like diving into a swimming pool.
As the path neared the summit plateau, hikers encountered a barren and rocky landscape where visibility often dropped quickly, thus becoming dangerous as mentioned before. Cairns (rock piles) mark the route across the plateau, guiding hikers safely to the summit.
When I reached the peak, there was an international party celebration with groups of people from all over the world. These fellow adventurers spent time resting and conversing with one another while enjoying the surrounding beauty. A line of hikers waited to stand for a photo op at the official highest point of Ben Nevis. There was a staircase to the highest point made of stones with a plague on top. This plague designated Ben Nevis as the highest point in the UK.
Again, because of the thick snow at the summit, I had to be careful where I stepped. A small emergency shelter resided at the peak, where hikers could spend the night if needed. I spent about thirty minutes at the top before descending back down the same trail I previously hiked up to reach the summit. I was relieved going down because I knew I had accomplished my goal to reach the top, taking advantage of sunny skies and clear weather. This reality is a rare occurrence in Scotland where cloudy overcasts and strong downpours remain frequent. The views looked different coming down the mountain versus climbing up. The descension brought the town of Fort William into clear focus again as I ventured past the loch midpoint and back to the Glen Nevis Visitor Center.
When I finished my hike, I decided to eat at the Ben Nevis Inn and Restaurant. I got off the trail at about 4:30 pm. The inn was on the Ben Nevis trail and close in proximity to the visitor center. The inside of the restaurant looked like a Viking dining hall. The building was made of stone and wood that had been worked on by craftsmen to create a rustic appeal like a cabin. While there were individual tables for groups, many of the seating arrangements were organized as long tables with side benches, similar to a picnic table at a campground. I ate the grilled Cajun chicken for dinner and the traditional Scottish cranachan for dessert. Cranachan is made with whipped cream, Scottish whiskey, toasted oats, honey, raspberry capote, and shortbread. The dessert tasted like strawberry shortcake, where the natural flavor of the raspberries was accentuated with these included ingredients. Like many meals I ate at other restaurants in Scotland, this meal was scrumptious!
After I finished my meal, much like the Geographer the previous day, there was a long wait out the door with others who had just finished their hike. This restaurant was a popular destination for backpackers in the peak seasons. My Airbnb host graciously picked me up at the same spot she had dropped me off at in the morning. I was grateful I did not have to walk back to my homestay after the long hike.
I spent approximately two weeks in Scotland. My time in Fort William and hiking Ben Nevis was my favorite part of the trip. While the city of Edinburgh possessed its own marvels, including Edinburgh Castle, I spent some intentional time with God during the four days I stayed in Fort William. I was able to slow down and absorb these splendid moments with the surrounding aesthetics of this elegant region in the Scottish Highlands.
(To travel from one lake to another lake at different elevations, boats can travel through canal locks known as Neptune's staircase.)
(This is one of the many small waterfalls I encountered on my Ben Nevis hike.)
(The vistas from the trail I hiked were breathtaking!)
(A cairn is a rock pile that shows hikers where the trail continues. These markers are especially important when visibility is less than ideal because of thick clouds or fog.)
(Even in July, the peak of Ben Nevis is covered with snow.)
(The Highland Bookshop had a unique selection of books by Scottish authors. I discovered a series about DCI Jack Logan, a detective created by author, JD Kirk. I have been reading the series ever since I got home.)
(St. Andrews Church in Fort William, near High Street.)
(This picture shows the inside of the Geographer, a superb restaurant I tried in Fort William.)
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